Hydrangeas

Hydrangea selections:
Top Row (l-r): Hydrangea aspera 'Macrophylla', H. macrophylla 'Blaumeise', H. serrata 'Kiyosume'. Middle Row (l-r): H. macrophylla 'Mariesii Variegata', H. macrophylla 'Glowing Embers', H. quercifolia 'Little Honey'. Bottom Row (l-r): H. arborescens 'Annabelle', H. macrophylla 'Enziandon', H. paniculata 'Tardiva'.

In the Pacific Northwest, few shrubs can surpass hydrangeas for variety and summer color in the garden. Whether you're a budding gardener or an ardent collector, you can never seem to have enough of these beauties in your garden. Hydrangea flowers range in form from subtle, understated lacecaps to the largest mopheads so cherished in floral arrangements. Other varieties may climb or offer variegated or golden foliage as well. This truly amazing group of plants is only beginning to be appreciated and fully utilized in our gardens as new species and varieties are made available to the gardening public.

These plants love our maritime climate with relatively mild winters and cool summers. Our generous annual rainfall is most advantageous too although care must be taken to be sure that they are watered deeply during the summer.

It is generally best to plant hydrangeas in areas that do not receive afternoon sun, with the exception of H. paniculata cultivars. Hydrangeas prefer moist,well-drained soils that have been amended with plenty of organic matter and they benefit from regular watering during the summer months. Other than an occasional slug or two feeding on young leaves, all hydrangeas are generally pest-free.

Hydrangea macrophylla, H. serrata and H.quercifolia are best pruned lightly in early spring just as the buds swell on the stems. With selections of these species remove weak or spindly stems and lightly thin older stems that have started to branch (the weight of additional flowers on these branched stems will cause the plant to flop badly). As a general rule, it is helpful to try to make sure to leave at least four pairs of buds on the stems that you are keeping to ensure blooms. H. paniculata and H. arborescens bloom on the current season's growth and should be pruned back hard in February-March. H. aspera varieties should be pruned hard for their first three years at the cost of not blooming to promote a fuller, more attractive plant later. Climbers such as H. anomala petiolaris and Schizophragma hydrangeoides 'Moonlight' do not require pruning.

As a general rule, organic matter or additives like Aluminum Sulfate will make the soil more acidic (lower pH) and tend to turn most hydrangeas blue (except for white-flowering forms). Garden lime or the additive Potassium Nitrate will make soil more alkaline (raise pH) and tend to turn hydrangeas pink. Certain varieties may have a limited range of color due to breeding (ie. H. 'Glowing Embers' can be purple in acidic soil but never blue).

I hope that this clears up some of the confusion regarding these remarkable plants and that you might be inspired to try a few new varieties in your own garden. Happy gardening.

Cheers, Tim

June/July To-Do List

Rosa 'Pat Austin' - English Type (from David Austin)

Garden Tasks For June:

Check garden soil in beds for water and test sprinklers for coverage.


Finish buying summer annuals and planting summer containers this month.


Stake and train climbing plants.


Prune rhododendrons and other spring-bloomers such as lilacs before the end of the month to control size and still ensure that they bloom the following spring. Doing so later in summer or fall will not allow these plants adequate time to form flower buds for next spring.


Begin pruning broadleaf hedges (ie. laurel, privet, etc.) and continue through Sept..


Pinch tips of fuschias, asters and other late-blooming perennials for better bloom and sturdiness.

Begin staking dahlias and other flowers whose stems might be in danger of breaking under their own weight.




Garden Tasks For July:


Shop for summer 'fillers' where you have gaps in the garden.


Finish feeding with synthetic fertilizers (ie. Miracle-Gro, etc.) except for annuals.


Lift and divide iris rhizomes.


Prune back late-spring/early-summer bloomers like wisteria and philadelphus.

Continue pruning broadleaf hedges.

Coleus: The Queen of Foliage Plants

Coleus varieties:
Top row (l-r): 'Saturn', 'Lord Voldemort', 'Pistachio Nightmare', Middle row(l-r): 'Religious Radish', 'Sedona', 'Beckwith Gem', Bottom row: (unknown yellow variety), 'Alabama Sunset' and 'Fishnet Stockings.'


Coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides) are summer annuals here in the Pacific Northwest although they are perennial in their native range in SE Asia and when planted in the mildest regions around the globe. It is safe to plant them in the PNW near the end of May each year when evening temperatures are in the mid-40's F. They more than compensate for their late start by providing glorious foliage all summer and a wealth of possibilities for combinations when paired with other plants. They are available in a wide range of colors and make perfect accents for mixing with other annuals in bedding schemes or in container plantings.

Previously grown in generations past as a Victorian conservatory (greenhouse) plant, earlier forms have been vastly improved upon in recent years by the efforts of superior breeders. Today's varieties are generally tolerant of both full sun or shade, making them extremely versatile without much worry about their light requirements (with the exception of some of the pale yellows, ie. 'The Line' which should be kept out of afternoon sun). They are generally very easy to grow if you purchase healthy plants at your local garden center. They require good drainage and regular feeding, as per other summer annuals. It is helpful to pinch off any flowers that may form on the terminal shoots to produce a fuller, more robust plant. Most varieties will grow to between 12 and 15" tall and wide although both larger and smaller varieties are available. Try Wells Medina Nursery in the Seattle area for an outstanding selection of these beauties.

Cheers, Tim

May To-Do List

Syringa vulgaris (Common Lilac)

To Do In May:

Finish mulching garden beds and applying organic fertilizers.

Continue treating for slugs with iron phosphate products like Sluggo.

Start staking and training climbing plants like clematis to prevent flowering stems from breaking.

Stake perennials such as peonies and delphiniums to prevent breakage of stems, especially if rainy or windy.

Continue to pull weeds before they go to seed. Pull or treat dandelions in lawns.

Shop for the remainder of your summer annuals and vegetables, although it is advised that you wait (if supplies hold out) on tomatoes, basil, coleus, New Guinea impatiens, zinnias and a few others until evening temperatures are above 50 degrees F. If you purchase tender annuals, you can keep them outside during the day and bring them into the garage at night until it is safe to plant them.

Deadhead rhododendrons as soon as they finish flowering.

Be careful to water if we suddenly have nice weather. As it gets warmer, the garden can dry out very quickly, especially new transplants.

Happy gardening. Cheers, Tim

April To-Do List

Yoshino Flowering Cherries in bloom on the University of Washington campus - 4/5/09


To Do In April:

Mulch garden beds with compost or manure .

Feed plants with organic, all-purpose fertilizers. Apply alfalfa meal to heavy-bloomers such as roses and dahlias.

Treat for slugs with iron phosphate products such as Sluggo.

Pull or treat weeds before they flower and go to seed. This will save you hours of work in the weeks and months ahead if you do a thorough job now.

Make sure that hoses, sprinklers, etc. are in good working order in case of an early dry spell in our weather.

Pay special attention to water containers and new plantings in the event of an early dry spell.

Begin to prune boxwood and other broadleaf evergreen hedging plants as needed. For spring bloomers such as Choisya ternata or Viburnum tinus, prune immediately after flowering.

Prune roses if you haven't done so already. New buds and shoots will be reddish in color.

Inspect perennials and roses for aphids and treat as necessary with insecticidal soap (not detergent soap) or other nontoxic solution. Be advised that pyrethrin-based insecticides are known to burn new growth on some plants and many stronger insecticides can kill off the aphids' natural predators (ie. ladybugs).

Shop at local nurseries for peak selection of trees and shrubs, especially hard-to-find items.

Only plant the hardiest of spring annuals and vegetebles until mid-May when evening temperatures are consistently above 45 degrees F.

Hardy spring annuals would include bacopa, lobelia, marigolds, pansies, petunias, snapdragons, dusty miller, etc.. Wait another month for zonal geraniums, coleus, impatiens, begonias, etc..

Hardy spring vegetables would include carrots, celery, lettuce, green onions, mustard greens, Swiss chard, broccoli transplants, parsley and most herbs. Wait to plant tomatoes and basil.

Tomatoes and basil should not be planted out in the garden until the evening lows are above 50 degrees F. Due to high demand you may need to buy them prematurely. If you do, you'll need to keep them outside during the day and then move them into the garage or a greenhouse at night to protect them. You may plant them when it is safe to do so in the days ahead.

Take time to get out and enjoy the beauty of spring. Take a stroll trough the Quad at the UW (see photo above), a trip to a public garden or just a walk around the neighborhood. We could all use some fresh air, Vitamin D and a few flowers to lift our spirits after all the nasty winter weather and gloomy economic news. Spring is here and summer is coming.

Cheers, Tim

Garden Peonies

Top row (l-r): 'Gay Paree', 'Festiva Maxima', 'Bowl of Beauty', Middle row (l-r): 'Red Charm', 'Comanche', 'Krinkled White', Bottom row (l-r): 'Kansas', 'Sarah Bernhardt', 'Illini Warrior'

Peonies are among the most beloved of all garden flowers available with its uses tracing back roughly two thousand years to China. Over four thousand varieties exist in cultivation today in a vast array of colors and forms. Many varieties are fragrant and virtually all possess attractive foliage that looks good all summer. They are exceptionally long-lived plants and their blooms make exceptional cut flowers.

The biggest challenge to growing peonies in the Pacific Northwest is keeping the plants free of Botrytis paeoniae, a devastating fungal disease that can occur when plants are not grow in optimal cultural conditions. This disease can be recognized as soft brown or brownish-red areas developing at the base of leaves and shoots which then wilt or collapse. Peonies require fertile, well-drained soil and would prefer four hours or more of direct afternoon sun. Aside from buying infected plants, you should be free of problems once you've made sure that you've sited your peonies properly.

When planting, it is also helpful to know that peonies resent being planted too deeply. Herbaceous peonies (those that die back completely each fall, stems and all) should be planted with their 'eyes' or growth buds right at the soil level. Tree peonies should be treated as shrubs, with the base of their stems kept at or above the soil level so that they don't develop root rot. Peonies also resent being overfertilized or disturbed after they've been planted. A little compost each spring is about all that they require.

When shopping, it is very important to avoid selecting varieties based solely on photographs from books or catalogs. This can be extremely disappointing. It is very helpful to observe varieties in bloom or to buy 'tried and true' varieties from reputable nurseries that are familiar with what grows well here in our region. It should be noted that peonies do vary in their bloom times by several weeks and many of the double-flowering varieties have a tendency to flop under all of our rain. Since many peonies require some staking, you may also wish to seek out some of the smaller dwarf and 'rock garden' types which are wonderfully maintenance-free. My final caveat is that young plants often do not bloom the first year and take about three years to become fully established. Your patience will be rewarded many times over.

Cheers, Tim

NPA 'March Mania' Plant Sale at BBG

Helleborus x hybridus - Rose Madder Strain


Important Reminder For Gardeners On A Budget:

NW Perennial Alliance's 'March Madness' Plant Sale
This Sunday March 8th at the Bellevue Botanical Garden (11 a.m. - 3 p.m.)

The NPA's annual spring sale (formerly known as the 'Hellebore Open House') has been an annual mecca for collectors of rare woodland plants and ephemerals. This year, however, they will also be selling off a massive number of plants that have been removed from the Bellevue Botanical Garden's NPA border during its current renovation for once-in-a-lifetime prices. Good garden plants, hellebores in particular, may not be available at these prices again anytime soon. Don't miss out on these good deals. Happy hunting. Cheers, Tim

MARCH TO-DO LIST

Narcissus 'February Gold' blooming earlier today (3/2)



MARCH TO-DO LIST:


MULCH GARDEN BEDS: Spread compost in all of your garden beds but be mindful not to bury the stems of your trees and shrubs. Many drought-tolerant perennials and herbs are also resentful of being buried. This mulch will feed your plants all season and keep their roots cool in the summer months ahead.



WATCH FOR SLUGS: Apply SLUGGO or other brand of Iron phosphate pellets around your emerging perennials to prevent slug damage. It is safe to pets and wildlife.



PRUNING: The beginning of March is an ideal time to prune roses. Remove thin, scraggly growth and preserve the stronger canes for the framework. A good general rule is to prune back the canes you're keeping by half. It is also helpful to prune about 1/4" above an emerging bud that is facing outward from the center of the plant. Contrary to conventional wisdom, roses do not do best when pruned back hard to the ground unless it is to remove diseased wood. For an excellent description of how to prune hydrangeas, follow my link to www.taunton.com/finegardening/ . The only other notable plants to prune at this time are summer-blooming shrubs and sub-shrubs that bloom on new wood, such as Buddleia, Lavatera and Caryopteris.



FERTILIZING: March is a fine time to apply granular organic all-purpose fertilizers to your hardy plants. The weather will regulate their release and there is very little chance of overfertilizing if you follow the application instructions. They will feed all season and improve your soil when added to a compost mulch. Avoid all water-soluble synthetic fertilizers (ie. Miracle-Gro) until April and try to limit their use to container plantings of summer annuals. Although effective in the short-term, they often kill microbes that are vital to long-term soil health.



PLANTING: Now is a fine time to plant just about anything you can find. Make sure to dig shallow, wide holes (at least twice the diameter of the roots) and don't bury the stems of your trees and shrubs. When planting in heavy clay soils, it is helpful to add up to one part fine bark or 'bark mulch' to three parts of the native soil when backfilling around the plants to provide better drainage. The extra air space between the soil particles will prevent root-rot, the leading cause of death in heavy soils. Avoid using sand to improve drainage, it has the exact opposite effect in heavier soils. Also, avoid planting in low areas that never dry out unless you can find plants that will tolerate those conditions. If the soil is extremely dry, add one part compost to three parts of the existing soil.



WEEDING: Eliminate as many weeds as possible before they flower and go to seed. This is the key to long-term weed control. Be careful not to use dangerous preemergent herbicides like Casoron in close proximity to your plants.



SHOPPING: Spring is right around the corner and now you can enjoy the best selection of roses, hellebores, small fruits and fruit trees. There is still time to buy dahlias and lilies for summer bloom too. Over the next few weeks, nurseries will be bursting at the seams with all of their new Japanese maples, dogwoods, clematis and a huge assortment of perennials and grasses. For collectors, the rarest of the rare trees, shrubs and perennials will be coming (and going) in the next six weeks or so. Trees with the best shapes or structures will be the first to go too. If you are looking to add a special tree to a prominent spot in your garden, you may not want to wait until summer or fall. Nurseries will not receive new trees until next spring.



GARDEN TOURING: March is an excellent month to visit one of the many public or private gardens in the Seattle area. A few favorites are the Bellevue Botanical Garden, which is open to the public, and the E.B. Dunn and Elizabeth Miller Gardens in North Seattle, both of which are private gardens that you can tour by appointment.


Cheers and Happy Gardening, Tim

Slug-Resistant Hosta Varieties

Top row (left-right): 'Halcyon', 'Fire and Ice', 'Blue Angel'. Middle row (l-r): 'Sagae', H. sieboldiana 'Elegans', 'June'. Bottom row (l-r): 'Liberty', 'Sum and Substance', 'Patriot'.

Hostas are among the most beautiful and stately of foliage plants for shade gardens but many varieties are severely damaged by slugs and snails feeding on their leaves. The varieties listed above have proven to resist such damage in all parts of the U.S. and are readily available at better garden centers at a reasonable price.

All that they require is well-drained soil enriched with organic matter and regular watering through the summer months. Try to keep most hosta varieties out of the sun during the afternoon hours to avoid burning the leaves. Varieties that will tolerate sun into the early afternoon are 'June,' 'Pathfinder,' 'Sum and Substance,' and 'Great Expectations' to name a few (not all are shown above).

As an extra bit of protection against slugs, sprinkle a small amount of SLUGGO or other brand of iron phosphate pellets around the base of your hostas and other emerging perennials to prevent damage. Iron phosphate is safe to pets and wildlife and remains effective after raining. Cheers, Tim

Dahlias

Clockwise from Top Left: Dahlia 'Sylvia J', 'Moonfire', 'Little Show Off', 'Bishop of Llandaff', 'My Joy', 'Fascination', 'Seduction', 'Pink Suffusion' and 'Hayley Jane'(center)

There are few plants that offer the range of color, size and form that dahlias can provide. Their ease of culture and versatility make them a favorite to gardeners of all types. Many of us enjoy dahlias for their long bloom period in late summer and the abundance of cut flowers that they offer. They are also easy to share with friends and neighbors, and the parent plants benefit from being divided every few years.

Many of the single and collarette types are popular for those looking to integrate dahlias into mixed borders or bedding schemes with other plants, especially those with dark foliage like 'Bishop of Llandaff' and 'Moonfire.' Although it is my feeling that all dahlias should be staked for support, these types tend to flop less after summer rains and their simpler flower forms contrast well with a wide range of other flowers. That being said, there are no 'gardening rules' where dahlias are concerned and they are the perfect plant for those who are more adventurous with color. Feel free to be as bold and exhuberant as you like. The possibilities are nearly endless when you combine them with other summer-blooming flowers. To hobbyists and breeders, growing dahlias can take on an entirely different meaning as they try to produce plants with perfect form and larger flowers or try their hand at breeding new varieties.

To succeed with growing dahlias, it is imperative that they be planted in moist, well-drained soil that has been enriched with organic matter such as compost or well-rotted steer manure. They also benefit from supplemental feeding with alfalfa meal and an all purpose-organic fertilizer. Deep, regular waterings are crucial during their bloom period from mid to late summer and regular deadheading will proliferate their overall bloom. For best results, try to site dahlias where they will receive at least four hours of direct afternoon sun. Less sun will result in diminished performance. Dahlias may also experience powdery mildew (a fungal disease on the leaves) when they are drought-stressed or if they are sited in an area with poor air circulation (usually shaded).

If purchasing dahlias as dormant tubers in February or March, I would recommend potting them into small containers and storing them in an unheated garage or frost-free location until the beginning of April. At this point, go ahead and plant them outdoors if the ground isn't frozen.

Many reputable dahlia vendors will be selling their wares at the upcoming Northwest Flower and Garden Show beginning on Feb.18th (see 'Events'). A few to note are: Connell's (Tacoma, WA), Dan's Dahlias (Oakville, WA), and Swan Island Dahlias (Canby, OR). Cheers, Tim

Assessing Cold Damage To Plants

Left:Phormium 'Sundowner"; Right:Hebe 'Amy'


Many gardeners in the Seattle area have noticed considerable damage to landscape plants such as phormiums (New Zealand Flax) and hebes due to our recent December snowstorm. The extent of this damage is the worst that I have witnessed since the winter of 1990. Among my own plants, Phormium 'Yellow Wave' and a variegated form of Pittosporum tenuifolium appear to have been affected as well. The combination of snow, moisture and several days of subfreezing temperatures created the perfect conditions to either severely damage or even kill a large number of marginally hardy plants in our region.

It is likely that most marginally hardy plants that had been sited in wet or poorly drained areas would have perished in this most recent event. Others at risk are those that were planted last fall and were not well-rooted. The plants that have the greatest chance of survival are those that were established and had good drainage to begin with. Nevertheless, before jumping to any immediate conclusions, I would perform a thorough examination of any plants in question. Once you see how severe the damage is, you can make a decision based on whether the plant can recover within a reasonable time period or if the cost of its replacement is acceptable. Since many of these plants are in very prominent locations, you may not want to wait until summer to fill certain voids left by any dieback.

When inspecting a phormium, even if all of the large grass-like leaves may be brown and/or dead, pull firmly on the leaves near the base of the plant. If they are firmly attached and do not pull away like limp muck, there is a good chance that the roots are in good shape and the plant should regrow from the base by summer. I would go ahead now and cut the leaves back to roughly 6" from the base. If another cold snap is expected later this winter, I would plan on covering the crown with pine boughs, burlap, or other protective covering.

To properly inspect a woody ornamental such as a hebe or Spanish lavender, I would try to wait until late March when temperatures can begin to encourage signs of growth such as budding on the stems below any branch dieback. At this time, you would be safe to prune or shear them back until you can see that the stem tissue is alive. If you scrape the outer bark on the stem with your thumbnail, you can see if the wood is alive if you detect a thin later of green tissue (cambium) just underneath. In the event that the plant is still alive, you must also check to make sure that the base(stem) of the plant is not buried by soil or mulch. If the plant needs protection from the cold in the coming weeks, wrap it in burlap or a sheet.

If your plant appears to have some hope of recovery based on what I've mentioned above, continue to monitor your plants weekly through the spring for signs of life and consider applying a generous layer of compost mulch with a bit of steer manure and all-purpose fertilizer worked in (don't bury the stems!!!). This should encourage growth later this spring when the temperatures outside begin to warm up the soil. For those who wish to resort to water-soluble synthetics (ie. Miracle-Gro), wait until at least early April. I hope that this can offer a glimmer of hope to some but only time will tell. Best of luck to all. I'll try to make my next post more pleasant. Cheers, Tim

A Few Bulbs For January and Early February

[Clockwise from Top Left: Galanthus nivalis (Common Snowdrop), Eranthus hyemalis (Winter Aconite), Cyclamen coum (Hardy Cyclamen) and Iris unguicularis (Winter or Clawed Iris)]

The bulbs shown above are some of the precious few perennial flowers that we can enjoy in January in the Pacific Northwest. Although there are larger shrubs like winter-blooming camellias and witch hazels in flower at this time, these dainty naturalizers have a charm all their own and they work nicely into existing flower and shrub beds. Each of them will spread slowly by means of offsets and self-seeding but none of them are invasive or pose a threat to neighboring plants. Each will go dormant shortly after blooming and magically reappear in January next year.


Species of Galanthus and Cyclamen typically thrive in filtered shade, whereas Iris unguicularis (and the majority of the genus) prefer afternoon sunlight. Eranthus hyemalis prefers direct sunlight in the winter months leading up to and during its bloom time but will tolerate deep shade from spring until fall. All of these plants prefer moist, well-drained soil enriched with organic matter. With the exception of Iris unguicularis, which may require a mail-order source, each of these plants should be readily available at better garden centers.


Stay warm in the meantime and make plans to attend and shop at the Northwest Flower & Garden Show next month (see 'Events'). Cheers. - Tim

January Garden To-Do List

My thoughts and references are below, but the tasks at hand for this month are as follows (if needed):
1. Prune deciduous trees (ornamental and fruit-bearing)
2. Prune summer-blooming deciduous shrubs (ie. Berberis, Sambucus, Cotinus, Spiraea x'Goldflame' -to name a few)
3. Apply soil additives now for desired color on hydrangeas but do not prune or fertilize them until mid-March(see link to Taunton's 'Fine Gardening' or I will show how in a future post)
4. Protect marginally hardy plants from cold temperatures (ie. Phormiums, hebes, etc.)
5. Have patience and restraint in pruning much of anything else. A good rule of thumb for the PNW(Pacific NW) is to wait until late February to prune any roses, buddleias, fuschias, lavateras and late-blooming clematis varieties. Also, refrain from pruning any broadleaf evergreen shrubs (ie. rhododenrons, laurels, etc.) until early April or after they bloom.

I hope that this helps some of you and enjoy the nice weather in the meantime.

Today was absolutely beautiful in the Great Northwest. The sun was shining and we had relatively mild temperatures for this time of year. This is the type of day where we can easily forget that we are still in the middle of winter and find ourselves overambitious about our plans to 'clean-up' our gardens. We are tempted to dress for battle and head out to prune back all oversized trees, shrubs and plants in sight. Though many subscribe to the 'neat and tidy' look, it is wise to take stock of what we have and what is best for our plants. With pruners, loppers and other garden implements in our hot little hands, adrenaline takes over and we may not realize that we have just pruned all of the flowers off of our rhododendrons and hydrangeas, rendering them colorless for the coming season. These overenthusiastic mistakes are so common at this time of year that it is difficult to make it all the way around the block without seeing at least one such example of garden butchery. These mistakes are understandable and we've all made them even though some of us, like yours truly, pretend that we've always known better. `
One book that set me onto the right path to caring for my trees,shrubs and perennials was 'The Royal Horticultural Society (Manual of)Pruning and Training' by Christopher Brickell and David Joyce c. 2000. The 'Maritime Northwest Garden Guide' produced by Seattle Tilth (principle authors: Carl Elliott and Rob Peterson)c. 1998 was also very helpful. Both have been reading staples of mine to know the timing and performance of particular garden tasks as they relate to specific genera. Both books do an excellent job of describing things in lay terms for less experienced gardeners, and each offers a wealth of illustrations and photographs to visually assist the reader. I am always looking for new gardening books, but these are very helpful as references before heading out on a sunny winter's day to 'take back the garden.'

Jewels Of The Winter Garden

Jewels Of The Winter Garden:
(Clockwise from Top Left) Hamamelis mollis, Camellia reticulata 'Yuletide,' Camellia sasanqua 'Setsugekka,' Helleborus x hybridus - Rose Madder strain, Cyclamen hederifolium, Acer palmatum 'Sango kaku,' Arum italicum ssp. italicum 'White Winter,' Helleborus x hybridus - Double purple form, (Center) Helleborus x hybridus (guttatus hybrid)

Happy New Year everyone! I'm back to blogging and ready to head outdoors again to enjoy another year of gardening. Time will only tell if I can keep my New Year's resolutions to grow more plants, take more pictures and share more gardening knowledge with my friends and clients but I'm going to try.
It is still freezing outside but there are signs of life and a few things blooming if you look around. The photos shown in the template are all plants that are in bloom now or will be within the next 3-4 weeks. If you are viewing this on Facebook, click on 'View Original File' on the bottom of this page and go to my URL for links to find out what's new for 2009. Cheers, Tim